This may not look like much to you:
But to me it’s the end of an era.
Cornstarch is a white powder resembling – well, cocaine, I guess, since cocaine is always described as resembling cornstarch or baking powder. (Oh. I guess I could have just said it looks like baking powder. Huh, there’s my first inappropriate remark of the day.)
You use it in sauces and stews and baked goods, especially those grandma-era recipes that call for things like “cream of tartar” and “allspice.” It also has some more arcane uses: comb through un-fresh hair as an emergency shampoo substitute, or mix with water to make a paste to soothe bug bites.
Nobody does these things any more, of course. An American talent for endlessly diversifying product categories, plus aggressive advertising, has pretty much ensured the death of the home remedy.
No one may really need corn starch these days, but those who buy it now have the convenience of new packaging. Which is good, because the old packaging sucked. It was impossible to get it out of the box without making an unholy mess.
This is the old box. What you can’t see in this photo is that it’s a simple hard cardboard box with a wax fold-over liner and no easy-pour spout. Once you sawed through the box top with a tomato knife, it was impossible to get even a quarter teaspoon out of that box without getting a dusting all over the countertop that made it look like you were cutting bricks with the Colombian cartel.
So to summarize, Argo’s got a nifty, neat new package for their product, arguably a little late, but the home kitchen’s going to be a tidier place now, right?
Right. Only…it’s made me a little melancholy. Wrestling with the cornstarch box was part of a bigger battle that I think I caught the tail end of – the competitive housewifery that lasted well into the seventies.
I was trying to find this ad that captivated me around, oh, 1975 or so, when I was a wee little girl hoping to grow up to look just like the va-voom betty crocker lady. It was an ad for flour, and it showed a plate of light, fluffy biscuits – with one flat, dense, burnt loser of a failed biscuit on the top. Each biscuit had an arrow and its measurement – 2.25″, 2.37″, etc. except for the top biscuit, whose arrow was labeled “We don’t want to embarass this cook by telling how flat her biscuit was!“
Oh, the shame olympics – they reached their ugly tendrils far, far into the American housewife’s workspace. The poor gal had a pretty unattainable standard to live up to; trying to be a sexpot in an apron and convince your husband that dusting was better than foreplay must have been exhausting.
I remember teaching my younger sister to make biscuits. She did everything wrong, and I was happy to tell her so. “You’ll never be a good cook,” I assured her, with considerable glee.
You know where this goes, right? Child of mine…Vengeance is, yet again, thy name. I showed my 14-year-old daughter the new Argo container the other day, with great excitement. I told her all about the old box, the struggles to keep it in the box, the impossibility of measuring a level spoonful – and then I told her about the biscuit ad.
She looked at me with that special combination of derision, incredulity and contempt that is the exclusive province of the early teen years and said “You’re saying women let these people into their house to measure their biscuits?”
- – and I must say that I didn’t have an answer for that. We not only let them measure, we bought the magazines that printed the ads that mocked and shamed the cooks who bought the product. And we judged each other over something as trivial as our baked goods.
(By the way, you’ll be happy to know that my sister has forgiven me for my kitchen cruelty. Here she is with Junior, passing on the family kitchen skilz…)
In my adventures, I came across a wonderful book that I think exemplifies the best-ever attitude toward homey things – that we should learn them because they improve our lives, not because they’ll make us more virtuous or womanly or, for heaven’s sakes, marriageable.
The book is called HOW TO SEW A BUTTON – AND OTHER NIFTY THINGS YOUR GRANDMOTHER KNEW, and it’s by a remarkably hip and fun person named Erin Bried. The reviews of this book are great – one reviewer says it’s full of “crystal clear, friendly, and funny instructions on how to do hundreds of little things that your mother forgot to teach you-not just sewing on buttons,
filleting fish, and making gravy, but balancing your checkbook, tying a necktie, and (my personal favorite) how to waltz.”
So anyway, ya’ll – anyone have a favorite vintage kitchen memory to share? I’ll pick one commenter who will receive a copy of HOW TO SEW A BUTTON, signed to you by Erin herself!!






















First — I still have a box of cornstarch in my pantry. The unopened one. The other one, since I live in Florida goes, like everything else into Tupperware.
My first kitchen memory is of sitting on the kitchen table with one of the wax-paper wrapped packet of Graham crackers (not plastic or that cellophane stuff). Mom would open it and place the crackers in the center of one of her white-striped with red (or blue–we had 2 sets) tea towels, and then wrap it carefully. She’d hand me the rolling pin, and I’d pound and roll to make the crumbs for the crust for her cheesecake recipe.
Now I buy the crumbs already made. But the smell when I open the box takes me back to being 4 years old and being a good kitchen helper.
Oh yes! Now I do those in my food processor. I often wonder how I made anything at all without a food processor. I also like imagining the marketing meeting where some dude was like “hey, bet we can sell them *already smashed into crumbs*”!!!
Oh my God, oh my God, oh my God. I am on the receiving end of that look daily. What a brilliant description — and awesome post.
Would write more, but I’m making biscuits and sewing buttons. Srsly.
CONGRATULATIONS to Sophie on her nomination for the coveted and amazing EDGAR AWARD!!! We are so proud of our newest MSWer. xo
hee hee hee did you ever wonder what would happen if you put all the teenage girls into a room when they were in one of their snits…it’d be like a zombie apocalypse, all of them lurching around sneering and snarking
And thank you for the very kind words on the Edgar!
I remember corn starch — and those home remedies — only too well. We used to spend a couple of weeks every summer in the mountains, and Mom wouldn’t have left home without the corn starch: great for bee stings, skeeter bites, rashes and shallow scrapes.
Erin Bried’s book looks great — all those tidbits one needs constantly!
And congrats again, Soph, for the Edgar nom!!!
If i could go back in time, I would LOVE to be a little bee buzzing around that camp Julie, seeing all the shenanigans you and your sisters got into!
Pie. Both of my grandmothers made excellent pie crust, and I am now the proud owner of both of their rolling pins, so every time I make a pie it’s like closing my hands over theirs on the handles.
I too own my mother’s rolling pin. It is very large and heavy and there are a lot of memories in it. Pie crust was a bit of a holy grail for me when I was growing up because my mom and gramma made it perfectly. Now, as you can see from my picture, it’s my sister’s job. And we have my mom’s aluminum fluted-edge pie plate and it is the only one we use.
Congratulations on the nomination, Sophie. =o)
Heh, I remember all those ads and the cookbooks and the old Good Housekeeping articles from the magazines in the attic. I still have the cornstarch – which I use mostly for thickening sauces and gravies.
The one vintage memory I miss from my childhood is the canning my parents did. There’s nothing quite like the smell of fresh blueberry jam simmering, and Dad always saved the foam for us kids. Fresh canned plums… Homemade pickles… :happy sigh: Someday I’m going to do that stuff myself. Maybe when I have grandchildren. (So not any time soon.)
My friend lynn makes the most wonderful jams using the fruit that her sister grows at her farm, the organic Frog Hollow Farm. Sometimes she brings big trays of not-quite-perfect fruit and we gorge on the plums and peaches or whatever’s in season…canning is a skill that eluded me, though my gramma – the same one with the rollling pin – picked wild blueberries every summer and turned them into pies the rest of the year. What a trip down memory lane today’s post is turning out to be, for me! If you check out Erin’s site there’s this really cool “Gramma gallery” – http://www.howtosewabutton.com/grandmas
SO thrilled for you on the Edgar nomination, Sophie – congrats!!
My grandmother, who could cook anything, always served dessert after supper. And in her household, we ate it until it was gone — no variety. So I was about in 3rd grade, tired of the same old, same old, and I asked her if she forgot how to make anything besides lemon bars.
Really, I wasn’t a bratty kid, and my mother was mortified — especially since she rarely made dessert and it was supposed to be a treat that I got dessert after the meal. To this day, lemon flavored stuff is not my fave
yeah, my mom was another one who thought Sunday supper wasn’t done without a home-made dessert. My favorite of all time was her layer cake. Yellow with chocolate frosting. Bizarrely, because my children are aliens from another solar system, they hate cake – cupcakes – anything like that. Which makes me crazy because I make a pretty good cake. All that cake talent, wasted! They always demand “cookie pizza” for their birthday, and that’s what they get – chocolate chip cookie crust with peanuts, chocolate chips, caramel and marshmallows.
Wow, wow, such a wonderful post. I have my mother’s big glass measuring cup style mixing bowl. You brought back many memories. And let me add my congratulations for the Edgar nomination!
Thank you! I loved how the depression glass and milk glass and Fiesta ware all came back in style a while back. I’ve been waiting for the perfect set of mixing bowls to come along. Meanwhile I’m using the white plastic set I got when I got married…Crate&Barrel gift register circa ’90 I bet some of you know just which one I mean!!
Tricky stuff, cornstarch. Too little, and things run. Too much and you wind up with gooey paste. Like in the made-from-scratch cherry pie I baked to impress my new son-in-law. Pitted the cherries and everything. What was I thinking? The recipe called for a tablespoon of cornstarch, but the filling seemed to thin. I added more. And more, not realizing that when it baked the center would thicken, thicken, thicken. That pie was a thing of beauty when I served it (I, too, inherited my grandma’s rolling pin), but oh, my what a disaster hid under the golden crust. The son-in-law valiantly sucked the glue off a couple of cherries before my daughter rescued him and threw the rest in the trash. Now, the only cherry pies in my house are store-bought.
Ha! See that’s just what I was sayin’ – cornstarch is tricky stuff, if it was a class you wouldn’t get to it until cooking grad school. I dont trust the stuff. Like there’s some sort of weird chemical reaction going on. “Mix with a little water with a fork” – yeah, forming rock-solid corn starch clots on the tines that will harden into calcium in the dishwasher. There ought to be a Federal grant to study this in a lab somewhere.
Forgot the Edgar congrats. My bad. CONGRATS! And while I’m here, the bestest most funnest thing to do with cornstarch is take a big bowl, dump in a box, and mix in enough water to make a gooey paste. Then let the kidlets pound on it with their fists (or stomp on it with their feet). Seriously. It won’t splash. Much. But do it outside or in an easy-to-clean place just in case.It’s like smacking the sidewalk. But if you are gentle and stir, or scoop, it goes back to behaving like a liquid. (Can you tell I taught pre-school?) But it’s so cool. For older ones you can even do a little teaching of chemistry and polymers.
Here’s a link (I hope) http://littleshop.physics.colostate.edu/Try%20At%20Home/goorecipeone.htm
Oh wait, and here it is! I was just sayin someone ought to study it and here we have scientists *and* TV folks on the job. Got to say those look like hairy man legs in the tub though. Hmmm.
I still use corn starch to thicken stew. My favorite thing under old fashioned is to make bread from scratch, watch it rise three times, infuse the house with that wonderful bread baking smell, but I remember frequent struggles waiting for that lump of dough to rise at all, getting Hershey’s fudge to harden, but not like a rock and we won’t even go into my canning disasters.
my mom made the most wonderful challah bread, with a golden egg-wash crust. We kids could eat a whole loaf in one sitting and my mom would always say to me – since I put about 1/4″ layer of butter on it – “have a little bread with your butter!” If I were on death row and had to choose a last meal, it would be fresh baked bread with butter.
Thanks for such a fun column. I’m really dating myself here, but I remember learning how to iron (I kid you not–Dad’s handkerchiefs and boxers) when I was a pre-schooler home with Mom. Since irons were not equipped with steam, we had a small, plastic, perforated-top bottle of water to sprinkle the clothes before ironing. Does anyone else remember learning how to iron?
Congratulations on the Edgar nomination for your wonderful “A Bad Day for Sorry†which I am reading now…or will be, when I finish with this note!
Me me me! Dad’s handkerchiefs and pillowcases. And yes, the sprinkler! Clothes were dampened, then rolled in a towel and then in a sheet of some kind of plastic so they’d be evenly damp when it was time to iron. There were steam irons, but Mom deemed them too heavy. (Which they were then).
Too many memories today — I really HAVE to get working!
I learned to iron with a little kid-sized ironing board that was identical to a real one in every way – same fireproof metallic-y fabric (remember that?) same folding stand. It was my favorite toy. I’d love to have seen the look on my daughter’s face if she received one of those for christmas instead of an ipod
Can you *imagine* ironing a guy’s boxers nowadays? uuhhhhh…wouldn’t do that for anyone, not even for a chance to shack up with Alan Rickman.
I remember the sprinkler bottle! Wow, I wouldn’t have thought of that if it hadn’t been for this column… but I remember my mom ironing my dad’s work shirts. I vaguely remember her ironing handkerchiefs, too. though I may be hallucinating that one.
And CONGRATS to Sophie!! YAAAY! I’m so thrilled for you.
Congrats! I really enjoyed this post!
thanks, amanda, on both counts!
First – damn you Sophie for bringing up Lynn’s jam because now I want some and I’m fresh out from the last jar.
Second – hug your daughter for me.
hey martha if you remind me next sunday, I have a half jar of I think Lynn’s meyer lemon/apricot jam, and I’ll make home-made biscuites (what else) and pop a stick or two of butter.
I just went down and hugged Junior
She was pretending to be asleep.
That look. I get it several times a day by my 2 teenagers. What I really love is when mom is right and that look disappears. Love it.
My grandmother used to fry eggplant for me. I have never been able to make it like her.
Oh! Oh! Holly….I was right once. And I could prove it. So I followed Junior around the house going “isn’t there something you want to say to mama…” in a sing-song voice until finally she whirled around, sparks flying from her eyes and snapped “oh, FINE! You were RIGHT! Happy now??!!!” And you know the answer to that, right? Yup, I was happy, hummed contentedly for the rest of they day. Hasn’t happened since.
I remember when I finally realized, in my early twenties, that I could finally buy my OWN bottle of cooking sherry and tipple a bit of it while I was cooking, just like my mother always had.
Good Lord, the disappointment. I’ll stick to the more expensive 2 buck Chuck, thanks… Another childhood fantasy, crushed…
ha ha ha ha ha….forgot about this one! most excellent. what i do, when cooking, is open a bottle of wine and try just a tiny little bit of it to *make sure* it’ll complement the dish.
Sophie, once again, congrats on the Edgar nod!
I am a cornstarch user! My box has an ear of corn on it. It’s blue, I think. I have it, somewhere, in my pantry. It’s that one ingredient that when I need it I go mad looking for it, but know it’s there. Somewhere…
For me the one ingredient that makes me crazy is rice vinegar. Every time I think oh yeah, I have that. I get going on the recipe and then I can’t find it and I have to run to the store, only to discover it a day later hiding behind the light corn syrup. I think I now own about eight bottles of rice vinegar.
Hey, I could probably pickle something very large with it! Like, for instance, Dog, if she steps on my power switch and re-boots my mac again….
pickled beagle. interesting…
Mine is molasses and dark corn syrup. I have at least three bottles of each. I also have one of those dumb pastry cutters. I end up doing it with a fork because I’m too lazy to wash the food processor.
But hey, you want to talk grandmothers and food, you gotta talk biscuits. Damn, I love biscuits.
i have dark and lite corn syrup! it’s ancient.
You all may be happy to know I have not done anything drastic to Dog yet. She’s down in Junior’s room, howling her beagle howl…
Hi Sophie and congrats on your Edgar nomination. Woo-hoo! Your post reminds me of my grandmother and how she had this amazing ability to measure all the dry ingredients in her hand, without meauring cups, and her recipes always turned out perfectly.
my gramma did that too. A long time ago my brother, who is an amazing cook, wanted to write down all her recipes for a family cookbook. He had to stop her and measure out the ingredients as she added them to the dish because she had no idea how much of anything she was using, just whatever “seemed right.”
I had to do that for my grandmother’s blintz recipe. I measured what she started with and what she had at the end. Her coleslaw was another one. She did that one strictly by taste – vinegar, sugar & mayo; S&P.
She also used to use a mix for pancakes but never read the directions on the box.
I still use corn starch I just bought an new box after Christmas because I was running low! Also have a rolling pen my father made for me but it needs to be heavier! I don’t use a food processor, I do everything the old fashion way. I use the rolling pen to crush up prezzels and nuts for a desert I make. I am just an old fashion gal I guess.
My sister is like that, she prefers to do everything the old fashioned way too, she likes the results better. I cheat and use the food processor for pastry, but she uses a pastry cutter. Which reminds me. If you ever want an excuse to walk around shaking your head and muttering “they don’t make things like they used to” – buy a pastry cutter. It took us several tries to find a serviceable one, and it’s not great – die-cut metal with the “blades” cut and bent from the whole. The one my mom had used very heavy guage wire on a wood handle, and I think if you applied it with enough force, it would cut just about anything to ribbons. (hey. heeeeyyyyy! an idea for a murder weapon….)
Thank you for this delightful and nostalgic trip down memory lane. I savoured every word. This brought back such fond memories for me. My grandmother was the baker and cook in our family and she would create these unbelievable apple strudels that would be delectable and unforgettable. I have her rolling pin but I cannot emulate her successes.
oh, apple strudel, love that. This may be sacrilege, but the best fruit dessert besides my gramma’s pie was the cobbler they made at Waffle House in Indiana, where I worked all through college. We used to steal bites in the freezer!! And my metabolism back then kept any from sticking….
CONGRATULATIONS on your nomination for the prestigious EDGAR AWARD!!! I’m thrilled for you!
My husband had a chipped and cracked bowl from his grandmother and it is the only bowl we can make mashed potatoes in. I’m so careful with that bowl, it’s a cherished memory of his.
thanks Jen!
don’t you feel like, as we get a tiny bit older, the sentimental posessions grow more and more dear and the expensive ones less?
Or maybe that’s just how I’m choosing to lie to myself during the economic downturn. Yeah, my 11YO minivan is *sentimental*…. LOL
I remember those cornstarch boxes and they were even worse than the baking soda boxes. I remember when my mother decided I was old enough to make chocolate chip cookies and how proud I was to present them to the whole family.
Oh yeah….when i was about ten is when I got biscuit duty. Every saturday until I got them right. And I *was* proud, and am to this day, though that has become an Auntie/Junior task too (my kids are SO lucky to have my sister in their lives).
OK this is a level of detail that will probably bore everyone to tears, but i love the baking soda box because you can get a perfect teaspoon by leveling it against the side of the box, if that makes sense.
All of you are bringing back lots of “grandma’s kitchen†memories for me – of the smell of her cinnamon rolls (she once actually let me eat all the cinnamon rolls I wanted – I didn’t feel so good later and didn’t do that again!), of her home-grown home-cured bacon frying before I was even out of bed in the morning, home-made pickles from the huge crock she kept in the cellar, and her patiently teaching me to bake bread. I couldn’t believe that project went on all day! (And yes, she measured all the dry ingredients in her hand, too.) But the most deeply imprinted memories were those of engaging with food-to-be on their farm before it got to her kitchen. “Picking eggs†was a bit daunting because I never knew which chicken was going to be grouchy and peck at my hand when I tried as gently as possible to slip the egg from under her. (Maybe the cranky ones were the early teen chickens?) But the day I’ll never forget was when she said, “Judy what would you like for dinner?†and I enthusiastically cried “fried chicken!†She grabbed the axe off the wall with one hand and took my hand in her other as we went out the kitchen door. I was stunned speechless as I watched wide-eyed at what happened next. Feathers and blood flew everywhere and the headless body flopped around in the parched Kansas barnyard dust. That night I ate only the mashed potatoes and corn on my plate, and was grateful that I had not breathed a word about my other meal-time favorite: hamburgers!
Congratulations, Soph, on the Edgar nomination!!! We are so proud of you!!
I loved that Judy!
I should probably admit that Judy is someone special to me.
(She is the lovely person who brought us homemade brownies, cookies, AND ice cream yesterday so the kids wouldn’t starve during their finals.)
Congratulations! I so enjoyed this wonderful post which was humorous and so special. It was the emotions and the thoughts that are the most important ingredients. My mother used to make these delicious soups and stews but she could never tell us anything concrete about the quantities. She used to throw in this and that and it always worked out perfectly. She was an old fashioned cook whose sensitivity knew how to craft these dishes with love and talent.
ruth, that was so sweet, but i’m kind of laughing because we are having “stir-fry” again tonight which is kind of a euphemism for when i take whatever’s lying around and cook it with a half bottle of kikkoman stir fry sauce. The kids are so onto me, they’re like “uhhhh….you call that stir fry?” If we have leftovers from panda express i throw that in too which makes it seem more authentic.
our moms’ / grandmothers’ generation would probably be horrified.
I know how to sew on a button. Don’t tell my husband.
Your secret is safe with me! I used to have a rule that I wouldn’t do any sewing that the dry cleaner would do, including hemming, buttons, etc. This was sort of hard to justify since my husband knew I had made my wedding gown, all the drapes in the house, a dozen quilts etc. etc.
There is no dry cleaner in my nearest town. Not that I ever got around to taking stuff to one when I did live nearer civilization, but…
Oh, I’m cornstarch challenged. It borders on bizarre. I’m actually a really good cook (I swear!!) but I cannot make gravy to save my life. I tried switching to Arrowroot thinking it might help my thickening issues but alas, no luck.
Erin–your book sounds great. I miss my grandma. And Soph, as always, your posts spark lovely memories.
I cannot believe that! I have had so many good things you have cooked….i think you must have got a bad batch of arrowroot
if you really think stay-at-homes aren’t rigorously evaluating each other’s baking skills, well, you haven’t taken muffins into a 1st-grade potluck recently … at least around here
you’re right – there’s always going to be a way to turn everything into a competition! But there’s also always that mom (or dad) who brings the day-old cookies with the pink frosting stuck to the plastic container form the grocery bakery…
Ha!! I bought that new Argo container two weeks ago. I was delighted. I hated those damned boxes with the ripped powdery paper and trying to get my measuring spoon in there! I thought I was the only one who noticed the new packaging…
hey kendra that’s so funny, maybe i’ll send Argo a note on fancy stationery just to let them know that we noticed!